Age Related Skins Problems Treatment with AHA
Anti-aging and age skin care products added with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) are flooding cosmetic market. Alpha hydroxy acids are supposed to smoothen fine lines and surface wrinkles, improve skin texture and tone, unblock and cleanse pores. They also improve oily skin or acne, and improve skin condition in general. AHA or Alpha Hydroxy Acids are not new for skin care world. AHA skin care and AHA skin products became popular in the early 1990s and in the 2000s are found in an increasing number of cosmetic products, including lotions, sun blocks, peels, masks, and toners.
What is AHA?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are also referred to as fruit acids because they are compounds most often found in fruits. They are used cosmetically to improve the appearance of skin and to reduce age-related skin problems.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids are a groups of acids found in fruits and milk that share a certain chemical composition. AHAs are found in citrus fruits and in apples, grapes, strawberries, and sugar cane. Common examples of Alpha Hydroxy Acids from fruits are malic acid, citric acid, and glycolic acid. An AHA found in milk is lactic acid. These names included on cosmetic labels indicate AHAs are present in the product.
How AHAs Works?
These organic acids act by penetrating and disrupting the upper layer of skin and are used to encourage the shedding of the outer layer of dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. This process is also known as exfoliating. This process results in a more regular skin surface or reduction of fine lines and surface wrinkles. AHA are used to counteract the signs of aging on the skin.
Consumers should note both of their presence and their concentration in products they use. Used routinely at low concentrations, these AHA skin products claim to improve the appearance of skin and can help to moisturize the skin. In higher concentrations, they are used as chemical peels that by dermatologists. Marketing claims for AHAs include their being able to improve acne, remove or decrease wrinkles, diminish excess pigmentation spots, moisturize, tighten the skin, repair sun damage, improve the underlying collagen and elastic tissues of the skin, remove viral warts and calluses, and other age related skin problems.
AHAs are similar but not identical to beta hydroxy acids also used in cosmetics for reducing wrinkles in wrinkle cream. The main beta hydroxy acid used is salicylic acid. One big difference is that AHAs are water soluble and, therefore, must be delivered in a water soluble base, whereas beta hydroxy acids are oil soluble and are delivered in an oil base. Enzymes such as papain from papaya and bromelain from pineapple are also used in a similar manner for skin exfoliation.
Recommended dosage of AHA Skin Products
Products containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids fall into three dosage ranges. The lowest concentration AHA skin products, which are typically marketed to consumers, contain less than 10 percent AHAs and have a pH of 3.5 or higher. They are used primarily as mild exfoliants and as moisturizers. At these concentrations they can be used on a regular basis unless skin irritation occurs. The moderate concentration products have an AHA concentration from 20–30% and are used for a light peel. Products in this range are often used in salons by cosmetologists or aestheticians trained should not be used daily; however, weekly or biweekly use is considered safe. Products with concentrations of 30% and higher are intended only for use by trained dermatologists. This type is used as a chemical peel, and the likeliness of skin irritation is increased. Chemical peels may use products with concentrations as high as 70%. Consumers should remember that AHAs are considered cosmetics and not drugs.
Precautions and Side Effects of AHA
AHAs act by penetrating the skin and partially removing the outer layer of cells. This AHA treatment decreases the normal protective function of the skin and can result in redness, swelling, burning, blistering, and even bleeding, rash, itching, and discoloration. The risk of side effects increases with increased concentrations of Alpha Hydroxy Acids and increased frequency of their use for age related skin problems treatment. Therefore, higher concentration AHA skin products should be used at no more than at 2 week intervals.
AHA skin products should never be used around the eyes due to possible inflammation. Increased sensitivity to the sun can occur following AHA, so consumers ought to use a good sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat after an AHA treatment. The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association concluded that AHAs are safe in cosmetic products at concentrations equal to or less than 10% of the final product. It also stated that AHAs are safe for use by a trained professional at a concentration equal to or less than 30% when used for a brief time. AHAs are not recommended for children or infants.
Side effects Documented side effects of AHA use includes skin irritation, stinging, blistering, and burning on the skin. Before using AHAs on the entire face, consumers should first try the product on a small area of skin to test for possible side effects. If adverse reactions occur, product use should be stopped immediately. One of the most alarming side effects of AHA use is increased sensitivity to the sun, which can lead to sunburn. Sunburn can actually increase the signs of skin aging, defeating the purpose of the product. A good sunscreen or sun block should be used following AHA treatment. Higher concentrations of AHAs are more likely to cause side effects than lower concentrations.